Granada is packed with tapas bars, but they’re not all worth the same. After years of eating my way around this city, I’m bringing you the areas and the bars where the tapa is still generous and good, so you don’t gamble on it. This is the guide I’d give a friend so she tapas like a granadina and not like a clueless tourist.
How to pick a good tapas bar
Before the names, the criteria, which is what really helps you:
- Where there are granadinos eating, walk straight in.
- Be wary of terraces with huge photos of the menu and a waiter at the door calling you over.
- A packed, noisy bar = a good sign.
- If the tapa changes with each round and gets better, you’re in the right place.
The best areas for tapas bars (and which counter to walk into)
Calle Navas
The tapas street par excellence, right in the centre. One bar after another, classic old-school counters. It gets seriously busy, but it’s pretty much a must for a first time.
This is where you’ll find Los Diamantes, an institution since 1942. Order their fried-fish platter (pescaíto frito) and you’ll see why there’s always a queue at the door. Generous tapa, pure Granada atmosphere.
Calle Elvira and Plaza Nueva
Right by Plaza Nueva, with tapas bars, tea houses and loads of atmosphere. Ideal for starting the night before heading up to the Albaicín.
- Bodegas Castañeda: one of the oldest taverns in the city, a step from Plaza Nueva. Vermouth on tap, cured meats and sharing boards.
- Casa Julio, on the little Calle Hermosa: a tiny hole-in-the-wall where they fry the fish like nowhere else. Don’t expect a table, this is a stand-at-the-bar place.
- Om-Kalsum, on Calle Jardines: for when you fancy a more refined tapa, with that Arab touch that suits Granada so well.
El Realejo
My favourite area. The old Jewish quarter keeps the most authentic counters and the most generous tapa. If you could only tapas in one spot, this is where I’d send you.
Have a wander to Taberna La Tana, a tiny wine bar where they nail the pairing of wine with its tapa: tell them what you like and let them guide you. And over by San Matías there’s another Los Diamantes counter, in case you liked it so much you want more fried fish.
La Pescadería and Bib-Rambla
In the heart of the centre, easy and central, with squares where you can sit down. A good starting point if you’re staying around here.
- Bar Ávila and Bar Provincias: two old-school classics, generous and honest tapa.
- La Bella y la Bestia: if you’re really hungry or out with a group, they pile on huge tapas for the price of a drink. Very much a Granada student favourite.
How to plan a tapas crawl
The key is not to get stuck in a single bar. Pick an area, stop at three or four counters, a drink and its tapa at each one, and keep moving on. That way you try a bit of everything and have dinner almost without realising it. How free tapas works I explain in full in the guide to tapas in Granada.
And if you want to stretch the budget, take a look at cheap eats in Granada. Everything else about the local food scene is in where to eat in Granada.
Frequently asked questions
What are the best tapas bars in Granada?
Among the must-visit classics are Los Diamantes (on Calle Navas, for fried fish), Bodegas Castañeda (near Plaza Nueva) and Casa Julio. In El Realejo, Taberna La Tana is a gem for good wine paired with its tapa.
How do I know if a tapas bar is good?
If it’s full of people from Granada and the bar is noisy, that’s a good sign. Steer clear of terraces with photos of the menu and a tout at the door.
Do you need to book at tapas bars?
For tapas at the bar, no, you just pop in and out. If you want a table to sit down for dinner, it’s worth booking, especially at weekends.
What time do people have tapas in Granada?
Around 1.30 pm for the midday aperitif and from 8.30 pm onwards at night. Those are the hours when the bars are in full swing.