Tapas in Granada are practically a national sport, and one of the loveliest. Here you order a drink and they bring you a tapa at no extra charge, so after two or three rounds you’ve all but had your dinner. But there’s a knack to doing it well, and as a local I’m going to tell you how it works, which areas to head for and what to order so you don’t get caught out as a tourist.
Let’s get to it.
How the free tapa works
The rule is simple: you order a caña (a small draught beer), a glass of wine or a soft drink, and out it comes with a free tapa. In most bars you don’t get to choose, the waiter decides for you, and it tends to get better with your second and third drink. That’s why here you go tapas-hopping from bar to bar: you have a drink, eat your tapa, and move on to the next stop.
With three or four stops you’ve had your dinner, and for very little money. It’s honestly one of the great joys of living here.
The best areas for tapas
- Calle Navas: the most famous of all, a whole street of bars. Packed out, but it works.
- Calle Elvira and around: atmosphere, variety and plenty of buzz.
- El Realejo: my favourite, the neighbourhood with the most character for tapas.
- La Pescadería and Plaza de Bib-Rambla: right in the centre, handy for a first stop.
I tell you about the specific bars worth your time, with what to order in each one, in the guide to the best tapas bars in Granada.
What to order for a tapa
Since in many places the bar chooses the tapa for you, your job is to get the drink right and let yourself be surprised. If you do get to order, go for the local stuff: habas con jamón (broad beans with cured ham), a good Spanish omelette, some cured meat from the Alpujarra mountains, or fried fish if you’re near the coast. And to finish, something sweet: a pionono from Santa Fe (a little syrup-soaked sponge roll).
A local’s tips for doing tapas right
- Don’t settle in at the first bar: the whole point is to keep moving.
- Steer clear of terraces with huge photo menus and a waiter parked at the door. Where you see locals, walk straight in.
- The good times are around 1.30 pm for a pre-lunch drink and from 8.30 pm onwards in the evening.
- If you’d rather sit down to a proper dinner at a table (rather than tapas-hopping), book ahead, especially at weekends.
To save even more, take a look at how to eat cheaply in Granada. And for everything else about the local food scene, head to the guide on where to eat in Granada.
Frequently asked questions
Are tapas really free in Granada?
Yes. You order a drink and they bring you a tapa at no cost. In most bars you don’t choose it, the waiter brings it out, and it usually gets better with each round.
How many tapas do you need for dinner?
With three or four stops (a drink and its tapa at each one) you’ll have had your dinner, and for very little money. That’s the Granada way of doing it.
Where are the best places for tapas in Granada?
Calle Navas is the best known, but you’ll also find great tapas around Elvira, El Realejo and the Pescadería area. The trick is to keep moving from bar to bar.
Can you choose your tapa?
It depends on the bar. In many the waiter brings one without asking; in others you get to pick from a blackboard. If you’re brought one that isn’t for you, you can always ask to swap it with a friendly smile.