The Sacromonte is Granada’s Roma quarter, the one with the whitewashed caves dug into the hillside. This is where the zambra was born, Granada’s own style of flamenco, and you can still see it today in the caves, which is exactly how it ought to be seen. I’ll tell you what to see, how to get up there and, above all, how to pick a good flamenco show without being taken for a ride.
Let’s get to it.
What the Sacromonte is
Tucked right beside the Albaicín, just a little higher up, the Sacromonte is the quarter where Granada’s Roma community settled, with its white cave-houses that stay cool in summer and warm in winter. It’s one of the most characterful corners of Granada, and it gives you a gorgeous view of the Alhambra from a whole different angle.
What to see in the quarter
- The Camino del Sacromonte (the main street): lined with the caves and the tablaos (flamenco venues).
- The Cuevas del Sacromonte Museum: to understand what life in the cave-houses was really like.
- The Abadía del Sacromonte (the abbey): right at the top, with a curious history and lovely views.
- The mirador de la Churra (a viewpoint): the Alhambra seen from the Sacromonte, and with hardly a soul about.
Cave flamenco: how to choose well
Here’s a warning, from one honest Granada girl to you: there are shows for tourists and there are good shows. If you’re going to spend your money, spend it at one of the historic tablaos in the caves, not at the first place that calls you in off the street. The difference between the two is night and day.
- Look for tablaos with real pedigree, the long-standing ones in the quarter.
- Check that it’s zambra, the flamenco native to the Sacromonte.
- Book ahead: the good ones fill up, especially in high season.
- Many shows include transfer from the centre, which is a real godsend given all the steep slopes.
How to get up there
You can walk up from the Albaicín (a good uphill stroll) or take the little C34 bus. At night, for the flamenco, an awful lot of people go with the transfer that comes with the show itself. It links up perfectly with an afternoon around the Albaicín: you’ll find it in the guide to Granada’s neighbourhoods.
Frequently asked questions
Is flamenco in the Sacromonte worth it?
Very much so, it’s where it all began. That said, pick a historic tablao in the caves rather than the first lure on the street: the difference in quality is enormous.
What is the zambra?
It’s the flamenco native to the Sacromonte, with its own dances and its own way of doing things. Born in the quarter’s caves, it’s the most authentic thing you can see up here.
How do you get up to the Sacromonte?
On foot from the Albaicín or on the C34 minibus. For flamenco at night, the easy option is to go with the transfer that’s usually included with the show.