The Alpujarra is one of those places that, once you know it, you never forget. White villages clinging to the southern slope of Sierra Nevada, streets with tinaos (covered passageways between houses) and flat roofs, water running everywhere, ham from Trevélez and a silence that lets you rest. It’s rural, authentic Granada, and as a Granada local I can tell you it deserves at least a day. Let me tell you what to see and how to explore it.
The Alpujarra at a glance
- Barranco de Poqueira (the Poqueira gorge): Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira, the three prettiest villages.
- Trevélez: the ham village, one of the highest in Spain.
- Lanjarón: the gateway to the Alpujarra, famous for its water and its spa.
- Hiking: trails between villages and climbs up to Sierra Nevada from the south.
The Poqueira gorge: the postcard villages
If you only have time for one thing, make it this. In the Barranco de Poqueira three white villages sit one above the other:
- Pampaneira, the first one, with its square, its weaving looms and its shops selling local produce.
- Bubión, the middle one, quieter, perfect for an unhurried stroll.
- Capileira, the highest, with the best views over the gorge and the starting point for many trails.
Lose yourself in the streets, look out for the tinaos (those covered passageways between the houses) and buy something from a telar (weaving workshop): the Alpujarra has a lovely textile tradition.
Trevélez and its ham
Trevélez is one of the highest villages in Spain, and it’s precisely its altitude and dry climate that cure one of the country’s finest hams here. Stop at a curing house, taste it and take some home. And if you’re into hiking, beautiful trails set off from Trevélez towards the peaks.
What to do in the Alpujarra
- Hiking: the GR-7 long-distance footpath crosses the region and there are trails between villages for every level.
- Eat country-style: the plato alpujarreño (a hearty fried plate of egg, pork loin, black pudding and rustic potatoes) is proper, hungry-walker food.
- Buy handicrafts: jarapas (handwoven rag rugs), ceramics and local produce.
- Climb up to Sierra Nevada from the south: from Capileira, in summer, you can reach the high mountains.
How to get there and when to go
From Granada it’s a little over an hour by car (via Lanjarón and Órgiva). A car is ideal for going from village to village. Spring and autumn are the best times: none of the summer heat or the winter cold, with the almond blossom or autumn colours as a backdrop. To combine it with the rest of your trip, take a look at what to see in Granada and the Sierra Nevada guide, which is its northern face.
Frequently asked questions
What can you see in the Alpujarra in a day?
The three villages of the Barranco de Poqueira (Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira) and, if you have time, Trevélez for the ham. With that you’ll capture the essence of the region.
Which is the prettiest village in the Alpujarra?
It’s very personal, but Capileira usually takes the prize for its views over the gorge. Pampaneira and Bubión aren’t far behind, and you can see all three in a single morning.
How long does it take to get from Granada to the Alpujarra?
A little over an hour by car to the Barranco de Poqueira. It’s best to go by car so you can move freely between the villages.
Why is Trevélez ham so famous?
Because of Trevélez’s altitude and dry climate, which cure the ham naturally and slowly. It even has a protected geographical indication and is one of the most prized hams in Spain.