You eat well in Granada, and you eat cheaply, and I’m not just saying that because I’m from here: anyone who has spent an afternoon going from bar to bar in the centre will tell you the same. You order a beer and they bring you a tapa with it, so after two or three rounds you’ve practically had dinner. But there’s a lot more to it than the free tapa, and as a Granada local I’m going to tell you where I eat, what to order and how to avoid the tourist traps.
Let’s get to it.
Where to eat in Granada, at a glance
- Tapas crawling around the centre, Navas and the Realejo (with the free tapa)
- The traditional tapas bars
- Eating cheaply without giving up on eating well
- The Granada dishes you absolutely have to try
- Where to have breakfast like a queen
- Restaurants with views of the Alhambra
1. The free tapa: how it really works
Yes, it’s true, it’s not a myth: you order a drink and they bring you a tapa at no extra cost. In most places you don’t get to choose, they decide for you, and it tends to get better as you order your second and third drink. It’s the most Granada way (and the cheapest) to have dinner: you go from bar to bar and between one tapa and the next you sort out your evening.
My advice: don’t settle for the first bar. The whole point is to keep moving, have a drink in each one and try whatever comes your way. I tell you everything (which areas, what to order and where the tapas are the good ones) in the guide to tapas in Granada.
2. The best tapas bars
Granada is full of bars, but they’re not all worth the same. The areas where I’d go for tapas without a second thought: Calle Navas (the best known, packed but good), Calle Elvira and around it, the Realejo (my favourite) and the Pescadería area. That’s where you’ll find the old-school counters where the tapa is still generous.
The specific bars that are worth it, with what to order in each one, are in the guide to the best tapas bars in Granada.
3. Eating cheaply without giving up on eating well
Beyond the tapas, Granada is one of those cities where you eat best for very little money. Full set lunch menus, sharing plates and neighbourhood spots where you eat like you’re at home. You don’t need to spend a fortune to eat well here.
Where to eat well and cheaply, street by street, in the guide to eating cheaply in Granada.
4. What to eat in Granada: the local dishes
If you want to eat like a Granada local, jot these down:
- Habas con jamón (broad beans with ham), the star tapa of springtime.
- Plato alpujarreño: fried egg, pork loin, black pudding and poor man’s potatoes. For days when you’re seriously hungry.
- Remojón granadino, a salad of orange, salt cod and olives. It sounds odd, it’s delicious.
- Tortilla del Sacromonte, the most traditional of all (I won’t tell you what’s in it, just try it).
- Piononos de Santa Fe, the little pastry I always finish with.
5. Where to have breakfast
The textbook Granada breakfast is toast with olive oil and tomato (or with ham) and a coffee, on a sunny terrace. And if you want to be naughty, freshly made churros. My spots for starting the day right are in the guide to where to have breakfast in Granada.
6. Restaurants with views of the Alhambra
Eating with the Alhambra in front of you is one of those things that only happens to you in Granada. In the Albaicín there are restaurants with terraces and the postcard view right there. They cost a bit more, but for a special occasion they’re worth it. I tell you about them in the guide to the neighbourhoods of Granada, alongside the viewpoints.
A local’s tricks for eating well
- Steer clear of the terraces with giant photos of the menu and a waiter at the door calling you over. Nearly always a bad sign.
- Wherever you see Granada locals eating, walk in with your eyes closed.
- For sit-down restaurants (not the tapas ones), book ahead: they fill up at weekends and in high season. The good news is it takes a moment to book from your phone.
And if you’re coming to eat, it’s because you’re coming to see the city: take a look at what to see in Granada and where to stay to have it all to hand.
Frequently asked questions
Are tapas really free in Granada?
Yes. You order a drink and they bring you a tapa at no cost. In most bars you don’t choose it, they pick for you, and it usually gets better with each round.
Which area is best for tapas?
Calle Navas is the most famous, but you also get great tapas around Elvira, the Realejo and the Pescadería. The ideal thing is to keep moving from bar to bar.
Can you eat cheaply in Granada?
Very cheaply. Between the free tapa and the set lunch menus, it’s one of the cities in Spain where you eat best for less money.
Which typical Granada dish do I have to try?
If you only try one, the plato alpujarreño. And for something sweet, a pionono from Santa Fe. The habas con jamón, if you come in spring.
Do I need to book to eat in Granada?
For tapas, no, you just pop in and out of the bars. For sit-down restaurants it’s worth it, especially at weekends and in high season.